Tire Cage Instructions with OG plates

Our removable tire cages were never intended to be installed anywhere other than our shop. So forgive us for the last minute instructions.


Plate Mount Hardware:

Eight 2.5″ x 7/16 grade 8 bolts

Eight 7/16 lock nuts

Sixteen 7/16 flat washer

Jack Mount Hardware:

Four 1″x7/16 grade 8 bolts

Eight 7/16 flat washers

Four 7/16 lock nuts

Some Pro eagle jacks require

3/8 hardware.


We recommend professional installation. If you are an amateur or DIY’er, please be proficient and confident in your abilities before drilling holes in your bed.

If you are doing this at home, please make sure to have a helper. It takes two people to tighten the bolts.

Please read instructions and watch video before starting installation.

Start off by placing the tire cage in the bed, in your desired position.

Take measurements to verify that the bottom plates will clear any obstructions. This is very important. You must make sure the bottom plates will be able to mount, based upon where you’ve drilled the holes.

*It is common to have the cage spaced back from the cab, because of lower plate clearance. This gap between the tire cage and the cab is great for traction board storage.

After you have found placement of the plates, be careful to center the plates on the humps, and use a square to make sure they are straight(refer to video). Drill holes in bed using a 1/2″ drill bit. The supplied hardware is 7/16, so this gives a lil room to align the plates perfectly before tightening, and may also help with stubborn bed liner material.

Once you’ve drilled all the bolt holes, you can then drill the pin hole using the center of the rear top plates as a guide.

Install all the lower plates.

Tighten all hardware just enough to notice the hump in the bed to start to squish, We recommend installing the quick release pin and have it pass through all holes and plates, while tightening the bolts to ensure proper alignment. Its important to make sure the threads of the bolts have engaged in to the nylon of the lock nuts. You don’t want to overtighten as it will smash the hump of the bed.

*Its a good idea to slide the tire cage in to position, and push the pins through the rear plates center pin hole, to make sure it lines up before tightening everything down.

Once all the bolts are tight, you’re done.

The pull pins will not come out when you have tires installed. The tires hold them in place. That is how most people run it. If you want to drive around, especially offroad, without tires in the cage, then it is a good idea to install the supplied cotter pin in the push pins.


By design, once you’ve tightened the tie downs, they push the tires down to the bed floor and lift up on the tire cage. This causes everything to go in bind, which keeps it all tight with no rattles.

Some 37 x 13.50 tires are stubborn to sit level. You may need someone to hold the tire level while someone tightens the ratchet strap tie down.

When offroading, its always a good idea to walk around your truck and check your suspension, while on stops, take a look and check the tire cage too.